French Gold. France was the birthplace of the modern hallmarking system in Europe with the Goldsmiths Statute of 1260 promulgated under Etienne Boileau, Provost of Paris, for King Louis IX. A standard for silver was thus established. In 1275, King Philip III prescribed, by royal decree, the mark for use on silver works, along with specific punches for each community’s smiths. In 1313, his successor, Philippe IV “the Fair” expanded the use of hallmarks to gold works. Reference: Wikipedia.
French gold items were fashionable among the elite with designers such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels.
Below are some examples and price guides of Art Deco French gold items including an example of a French gold hallmark and a jeweled cigarette case.
Example of French Gold Hallmark
A FRENCH ART DECO GOLD AND LACQUE BURGAUTÉ DOUBLE CIGARETTE BOX MOUNTED WITH NEPHRITE AND JEWELS, CARTIER, PARIS, CIRCA 1925 of “bateau” form, the pair of gold covers set with black lacquer moon-lit landscapes inlaid with mother of pearl figures, fences, plants, trees and rocks, on the left- a seated Immortal with attendant holding a peach with a deer in the corner, on the right- a scholar and attendant with flute, the angles mounted with coral cabochons in gold collets, the covers with gold-mounted ebonite rod hinges ending in coral finials, the gold body applied on both sides with an elongated arrangement of carved nephrite flowers scattered with rose diamonds, coral and onyx cabochons and rising from an onyx vase, all mounted on two ebonite blocks carved with key pattern, cedar-lined signed inside one cover in script Cartier, Paris, New York, Made in France, the rim stamped 2993
Sold for 162,500 USD at Sotheby’s in 2019
AN ART DECO DIAMOND AND PEARL WRISTWATCH, CIRCA 1930 The square dial with Roman numerals, the bezel and lugs millegrain-set with rose-cut diamonds, to a woven strap set throughout with seed pearls, mounted in white gold, signed Haas and numbered, rubbed maker’s mark, French assay mark, length 17.0cm
Sold for £ 2,550 inc. premium at 2020
A FRENCH JEWELLED GOLD CIGARETTE CASE BY BOUCHERON, PARIS, CIRCA 1930 Rectangular case, with chased cover and base, with black lacquer interior and sapphire set motif and thumbpiece 4 ¼ in. (107 mm.) wide
Sold for GBP 2,500 at Christie’s in 2017
French Art Deco Gold Mounted Agate, Hardstone and Coral Miniature Footed Bowl Van Cleef & Arpels, 1920s-1930s The carved agate circular bowl on a hardstone support mounted with coral beads, continuing to a circular agate base on ball feet. Height 1 3/8 inches, diameter 2 5/8 inches.
Sold for $11,875 (includes buyer’s premium) at Doyle in 2020
Art Deco 18k Gold, Lapislazuli and Diamonds Jabot. Circa 1920s. Rose Cut Diamonds TCW Approx 0.12 CT and French hallmark Jabot featuring an Asian human figure.
Sold for $650 at Intervendue in 2021
