Traces of platinum have been found in Ancient Egyptian jewelry, showing that it has been around for centuries (1), however, it really gained popularity from the 1900’s and has remained so ever since. Before the metal became popular in Western jewelry, diamonds were often mounted in silver, but by the Art Deco era, platinum was the most popular metal for displaying diamonds. It is harder than gold and less likely to break.
(1) Wikipedia
Below are some examples and price guides of Art Deco platinum items including a wristwatch and examples of platinum hallmarks.
Platinum mark found on a ring
This mark was found on an Art Deco ring and reads 10% Irad Plat which means it is 10% Iradium and 90% Platinum.
AN ART DECO RECTANGULAR WRISTWATCH WITH DIAMOND SET INDEXES CIRCA 1925 by Hamilton
Sold for 1,250 USD at Sotheby’s in 2020
ART DECO EMERALD AND DIAMOND PENDENT EARRINGS, CIRCA 1930 The articulated tassels set with calibré-cut emeralds above brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds, terminating in pear-shaped emerald drops, mounted in platinum, length 2.7cm, cased by Tessiers Ltd
Sold for £ 9,437 inc. premium at Bonham’s in 2020
ART DECO PLATINUM BRACELET, CARTIER, ACCOMPANIED BY CARTIER AND VAN CLEEF & ARPELS CHARMS Variously-shaped old-cut diamond-set charms depicting a set of golf clubs (signed Cartier), a bell (signed Van Cleef & Arpels, no. 49218), a duck (signed Cartier), a horseshoe (signed Cartier), initials ‘J.G.’ (signed Cartier), a baton (signed Cartier) and a locomotive (unsigned), platinum chain (French marks), 7 ins., circa 1925, signed Cartier, ‘Paris’; accompanied by an 18k gold (French mark) charm, set with a rectangular-cut diamond, emerald, amethyst, ruby, emerald, sapphire and turquoise (an acrostic of ‘Dearest’), suspending a spinning disc engraved in blue enamel with ‘7.2.29, G. S.’, signed Cartier, ‘Paris’
Sold for USD 15,000 at Christie’s in 2019
Art Deco Circa 1920 Marcus & Co. Diamond, Emerald and Platinum Openwork Flexible Link Bracelet. Set with approx. 9.35 carat TW twelve old European cut diamonds and accented throughout with approx. 10.50 carat TW old European and single cut diamonds and approx. 3.0 carat TW forty eight round cut emeralds. Diamonds F-G-H color, VS1-VS2 clarity with a few SI1. Signed to clasp Marcus.
Sold for $24,000 at Kodner Galleries Inc in 2021
